Vogue’s Guide to the Black-Tie Dress Code

Perhaps you’ve found yourself the recipient of an invitation with a black-tie dress code. Maybe it’s a wedding, a gala, or another equally formal event. At a time when our day-to-day attire tends toward the casual, a black-tie dress code can feel daunting, leaving people to wonder if what they already have in their closets will cut it. You never want to feel like the person who missed the memo.

Here, Vogue helps to decode the black-tie dress code.

What does a black-tie dress code actually mean?

For anyone who wants to go the suiting route, the brief is pretty simple (and literal): you’re to wear a black bow tie with your dinner jacket. Because it’s a step down in fanciness from white tie, the black-tie dress code leaves more room for interpretation when it comes to garments beyond the suit. Still, there are still certain parameters. While one woman’s “dress to impress” may mean a barely-there Mugler minidress, that would be entirely wrong for a charity gala (though definitely impressive!). So, in moments of doubt, don’t be afraid to ask your host for clarification on the level of formality they are expecting of their guests. Nowadays, especially for weddings, hosts will even send out visual examples or moodboards to mitigate any misinterpretations. But when in doubt, ask the host what they are planning to wear.

What’s the best way to navigate a black-tie dress code?

For women, we can generally assume that “black tie” equals “long.” But that doesn’t mean just any long dress fits the bill. Make sure your dress is rendered in an evening-appropriate fabric: think velvet, chiffon, silk, or lace. While a cocktail dress—shorter, possibly ritzier—might cut it if your host is more relaxed, it’s best to assume that a floor-sweeping number (or the aforementioned tuxedo situation) is expected.

How can I predict how fancy an event will be?

Consider the context clues. If your invitation came on thick card stock, complete with a wax seal and an address in ornate calligraphy, the dress code will likely be just as formal. But if your memo arrives digitally—via text or something like Partiful—you can take a breath. The exception there is Paperless Post: just because the invite came in via email doesn’t mean it isn’t a floor-length affair. Make sure to give the invitation a close read to get a better idea of what’s expected of you.

How can I avoid making a wardrobe faux pas?

If applicable, quiz people from your own social circle about their interpretations of the dress code. (And before you worry: No, rewearing something you already own is not a faux pas. It just shows that you’re a self-assured shopper with a good grasp on your personal style! Don’t break the bank by wearing something brand-new for every occasion.) You don’t want to turn up wearing the same dress as someone else. Consider starting a text or email thread with everyone you know going to make sure there is no overlap. But, hey—things happen. If you end up accidentally matching with another guest anyway, embrace it, and acknowledge your doppelgänger. Maybe even pose together for a quick Instagram Story!

What shoes should I wear?

While you’ll want to stick with the formal dress code, be aware of your environment. If you can, scope out the location ahead of time: will you be navigating gravel, paving, lawn, or a parquet floor? Assess the routes you might need to take over the course of the evening, and be prepared to park the stilettos. Or, if you simply must wear your teetering Jimmy Choos, find a willing squire to ferry you across danger zones. And, on that note: Never, ever take your shoes off on the dance floor. You may step on a rogue shard of glass—or another guest may step on your pedicure. And nothing kills the party spirit like a trip to the ER for stitches or a tetanus shot.

Can I wear black?

Absolutely! There’s a reason everyone else is wearing it. Just make sure your accessories are elevated—your host will appreciate the effort you’ve made, and you’ll stand out from the sea of like minds. If all else fails, buy a cluster of diamanté brooches and pile them onto lapels and necklines—or in messy, bed-head hair. Tell everyone they’re heirlooms!

What we’ve learned over the years?

Take the advice given, above, but also use your discretion. Not every black-tie event is the same, so the rules may vary, but the important thing is always to respect the host and follow their vision for the night’s dress code.

Black-tie events can pose an unnerving sartorial challenge, but once you’ve done one, you know how to tick the boxes while also feeling like yourself. Whether it’s a simple frock or standout gown, don’t be afraid to repeat outfits; it’s chic to look the part, but even chicer to do so in a responsible way. (Even royals and celebrities can be spotted wearing outfits they were papped in before.) Whether you achieve that by arranging your wardrobe by season or by degree of formality, build your own black-tie capsule wardrobe and you’re set.