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A Short History of the Front Row

Director: Catherine Orchard Editors: Evan Allan, Ryan Jeffrey Producers: Rahel Gebreyes, Bety Dereje Archival Researcher: Lilli Karkowski Writer: Laia Garcia-Furtado Associate Producer: Marisah Yazbek Creative Production Coordinator: Anisa Kennar Production Coordinators: Ava Kashar, Tanía Jones Production Manager: Natasha Soto-Albors Line Producer: Romeeka Powell Senior Director, Production Management: Jessica Schier Assistant Editors: Fynn Lithgow, Justin Symonds Post Production Coordinator: Scout Alter Art & Graphics Lead: Léa Kichler Supervising Editor: Erica DeLeo Post Production Supervisor: Alexa Deutsch Associate Director, Post Production: Nicholas Ascanio Director, Content Production: Rahel Gebreyes Senior Director, Video: Romy van den Broeke Senior Director, Programming: Linda Gittleson VP, Video Programming: Thespena Guatieri Footage Courtesy of Video Fashion Image Courtesy of Steven Meisel

Released on 11/19/2024

Transcript

[upbeat music]

[Narrator] Fashion.

Everyone has an opinion.

Over the past 75 years,

fashion shows have transformed from pictures

into real life showcases produced around the world.

The mythology and reality of the front row has evolved

[camera clicking]

along with our increasingly fast, globalized planet.

Industry shifts, the media,

and the power of influence and celebrity

all play a role in who sits front

and center at Fashion Week.

[Announcer] A new designer, Christiane Dior,

was chiefly responsible

for launching the most recent fashion revolution.

[Narrator] In the 1950s,

fashion was characterized by a return to tradition.

Christian Dior's famous new look,

emphasized the specific point of view on femininity

and was the dominant silhouette at couture shows.

Upper echelon society women

placed orders for the upcoming season,

while editors and photographers

decided what to show in magazines.

[Advertiser] This boutique is aimed

at the middle range buyer

and we men are headed for quite a fall.

[upbeat music]

[Narrator] Clothing in the 60s embodied individual

ideas of freedom.

Designers began to allow press photographers

to document the still exclusive scene.

Front row celebrity presence wasn't yet determined

by marketing strategy,

but by personal relationships with designers.

[camera clicking]

Clothes today are illogical, decadent, and too expensive.

The 70s brought self-expression

to the forefront of fashion.

Once intimate gatherings became large presentations

with hundreds of store buyers from around the world,

alongside the usual crowd, a new kind

of cultural influencer signaled

a new possibility for the fashion show.

In addition to selling the designer's latest collection,

the fashion show now becomes its own kind of entertainment,

and a front row seat holds greater social capital.

If the 70s pushed forward expression through clothing,

the 80s added glamour.

Power dressing and supermodels,

marked the decade's appetite for extravagance.

More is more.

An unofficial front row formed,

filled not with the most important editors and celebrities,

but by photographers surrounding the runway.

[camera clicking]

[Interviewer] People think of models,

you know what the image of models is, but obviously,

it must be bright if you're-

What is the image of models?

I'd like to know.

Single digit IQs and stuff like that?

[upbeat music]

By the 90s,

the media circus had fully invaded shows,

and in the age of the supermodel,

the fashion industry went mainstream.

The front row was still coveted,

but backstage was an even more exclusive party.

[upbeat music]

Gorgeous, bye.

[Narrator] The millennium arrived at Fashion Week,

with it, a newly minted fashion star, the celebrity,

The front row became part of self-promotion strategy.

Some were there to watch the runway while selling a film,

fragrance, album, book,

or trying for a role in a fashion campaign.

As actresses and musicians replaced models,

an uptick of fashion websites, blogs,

and street style photography meant a Fashion Week invite

was an opportunity to become a star.

Suddenly, an event intentionally made

for a select few became accessible to all,

at least through a screen.

Eventually, you'll have telephone, email, typewriter,

and the television will be in there,

everything will be in there.

[Narrator] In the advent of social media,

the 2010s invited new characters to the front row,

fashion bloggers and influencers.

[camera clicking]

Fans turned to influencers,

arrived with startling economic power.

It was often said,

Technology democratized fashion.

With newly perceived accessibility, the experience

of the fashion show changed

with influencers broadcasting in real time

for millions of followers.

The impact of influence would go on to change the industry

and the world in a permanent way.

[tape rewinding]

[static crackling]

A global pandemic brought the world to a halt.

At first, it seemed the concept

that the fashion show itself would be reevaluated.

I guess you had to flow like water and find alternatives,

[Narrator] But when restrictions were lifted, it was back

to business as usual, for most.

Questions on alignment of values

and messaging emerged,

the fashion industry was no exception.

The front row continues to feature the usual editors,

buyers, influencers, stylists, celebrities,

and so-called friends of the brand that reflect designers'

values and community.

In a new twist,

a design debuting on the runway could now be seen

on a VIP gracing the front room.

And in this moment, the fashion show experience expands

to the front row itself,

reaching the world at the very same time.

[soothing music]